Enrico Scavino’s 1990 Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata (magnum), here in its first vintage, is a great example of the modern school of Barolo. Silky tannins frame a core of expressive red berries, crushed flowers and sweet spices. As outstanding as this magnum is, it doesn’t quite reach the heights of a magnum I tasted a few months ago, and both were from the same case. Sometimes, that’s just the way it goes. -- Antonio Galloni