Time has not been kind to the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino. Leather, mushrooms, smoke, cedar, licorice, dried cherry iron - all signs of a fully mature wine - are front and center. Although there is plenty of depth and richness to the fruit, the 2004 has not aged well, especially in its aromatics. There is little finesse or elegance at all to speak of. Both bottles I tasted, one at the winery and one from my cellar, were disappointing. Granted, this is the estate's entry-level bottling, but I expected more in a vintage with this pedigree. -- Antonio Galloni