If Brunnen chardonnay is the black sheep, this is the more straight laced cousin. In that, more ‘classic Beechworth’ in its way, but geez, it is a belter from any angle.

MB: Succulent, quietly powerful, green apple, just-ripe nectarine, a touch of ginger, some green almond, licks of nougat and a faint saline mineral edge in there too. Beautiful, gently floral perfume with the rest of those characters I wrote before. The palate a swish and swizzle of pretty fruit, savoury elements, cool, high toned acidity, a faint rose water character, which is interesting, and, like Brunnen, exceptional length and freshness. Phwoar, haven’t VS&B nailed chardonnay in 2021. 95 points.

GW: White peach, cedar and cinnamon quills, a little mint, chamomile, ginger. It’s light, cool feel to it, some green olive, gentle saline character, a light dusty texture studded with sweet spice and almond, with a fine powdery grip on a finish of excellent length. Calm, fine-boned, and beautifully turned out. It’s some drink. 95 points.