A very ripe yet still agreeably fresh nose features notes of warm earth, poached plum, mocha and cassis. There is excellent richness to the solidly concentrated and well-detailed flavors that possess a sleek mouth feel despite the presence of plenty of taut muscularity, all wrapped in an austere and serious finish that is impressively complex and persistent. This is not as concentrated as the Vaucrains but it’s every bit as structured. (91-94)/2033+