This bottle of 1998 Lafleur exudes such mineralité on the nose that it is rendered more distant and less appeasing to the senses than the 1999 Lafleur. However, there is undeniably brilliant delineation with almost flint-like scents filtering through the black sultry fruit. It is certainly less opulently gregarious than bottles tasted within the first decade of its life. The palate is medium-bodied with tannins just beginning to soften, less demonstrative than bottles encountered previously and less “sexier”. I guess you could say that this is a Lafleur that has “grown up” in recent years but it has something up its sleeve for those prepared to wait another decade. The 1998 is one for the more patient amongst readers. Tasted at the “International Wine & Business” Lafleur dinner at Ten Trinity, London. -- Neal Martin