The 2004 Barolo Parafada is the softest and most open-knit of Massolino's Barolos. At the time, the Parafada was done partly in French oak, so it has sleeker contours than the other wines in the range, yet it also retains a lovely sense of freshness. Crushed flowers, licorice and spices meld into a core of supple, nicely layered fruit. The 2004 should drink well for at least another decade. This is a strong showing, especially considering Massolino was making the Parafada in a slightly different style that was not really their strongest suit. -- Antonio Galloni