Glass-staining ruby. Powerful, spice-accented aromas of fresh black and blue fruits, candied violet, licorice and olive paste, along with a hint of exotic spices that builds steadily in the glass. Sweet, palate-staining cassis, boysenberry, floral pastille and star anise flavors turn livelier with air. Impressively concentrated but surprisingly lively thanks to its spine of smoky minerality. Finishes sappy, seamless and impressively long, with steadily building tannins and lingering florality. -- Josh Raynolds